From Style Correspondent Elsa Klensch

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NEW YORK (CNN) -- His style is simple and minimal, but there's no doubt Marc Jacobs is in an opulent mood for spring and summer.

While his outfits never go over the top, he's playing with detailing like never before.

Jacobs uses smocking, scalloping and ribbon trims. But he says it's not decoration, because he makes each element an integral part of a piece.

"So they don't look like applied ornamentation, and I am pleased with the way it looks," he says.

Jacobs' color palette includes lots of blues, pinks, violets and grapes, and "some black and white and khakis, which I can't live without -- ever," he says.

The designer does A-line or what he calls "bubble" silhouettes with more volume at the hem.

Skirt and dress lengths are at, or just below, the knee. Pants are around the knee or just above the ankle.

"The pants and bottoms are fuller and, again, sort of soft with either gathering or tucks of some smocking details," Jacobs says. "The tops are pretty small -- narrow shoulders."